Naples: Discovering the City

Naples is a city that’s best experienced with a combination of local knowledge and self-discovery. To get the most out of my trip, I enlisted the help of Vincenzo & Giulia, who provided invaluable insights into the city’s hidden gems. Together we visited:

The Galleria Borbonica – we descended into the underbelly of Naples and explored the historic Galleria Borbonica, a network of tunnels that once served as a royal escape route and wartime bunker. This subterranean adventure offers a unique glimpse into the city’s past and it’s well worth it! The work the team has done to make it possible for us to see this place is truly remarkable! They spent years clearing the place out finding tunnels for us to discover and learn even more about Napoli, its people, its history!

Castel Sant’Elmo – High on a hill overlooking Naples sits the imposing Castel Sant’Elmo. Ascend to the fortress for breathtaking panoramic views of the city and the shimmering silhouette of Mount Vesuvius in the distance. Take a moment to savour the views with a refreshing glass of local Falanghina wine and a bag of crisps – pure bliss! The entry fee is a mere €5 per person, making this a must-visit stop.

Castel dell’Ovo – Naples’ oldest standing fortress, Castel dell’Ovo, beckons with its seaside charm and rich history. While currently closed to the public, the castle’s location makes it a perfect spot to catch the sunset. Afterward, head to the bars lining the bridge or on the island for a delightful aperitivo (or two)!

Museo e Real Bosco do Capodimonte – we escaped the city’s buzz at the Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte. Wander through the scenic woods of the Capodimonte park, a verdant oasis perfect for a relaxing afternoon. Immerse yourself in the museum’s art collection before unwinding with a refreshing aperitivo al fresco. Allocate at least half a day to fully appreciate the beauty of this place. Unfortunately I only had just over an hour, yet another reason why I will return to Naples in the near future!

Vomero – we drove through this vibrant neighborhood with lively shops and restaurants, offering a taste of local life.

Posillipo – another place were you can spend the afternoon away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Here time seem t slow down and you can enjoy the dolce far niente the Italians are so good at!

During my stay in Naples, I also joined two tours from Get Your Guide for a guided exploration:

Naples Underground Entry Ticket & Guided Tour – €15

Naples: Downtown, Veiled Christ & Cloister of Santa Chiara – €48.60

While I enjoyed exploring Naples Underground, having already visited the Galleria Borbonica, I felt I’d seen a similar glimpse of the city’s underground world. For a truly unique experience, if you have to choose between the Napoli Underground and the Galleria Borbonica I highly recommend Galleria Borbonica’s Adventure Tour.

The highlightsof the Downtown Naples tour, were the Cloister of Santa Chiara and the stunning Veiled Christ. Words cannot do justice to this masterpiece! The entire church itself is incredible, and photography is prohibited, making it an experience you have to see for yourself. Be sure to book tickets or join a tour in advance, as walk-ins aren’t allowed. Our fantastic guide, Francesca, made the tour both informative and enjoyable with her vast knowledge.

On my days discovering the city on my own, I stumbled upon a fantastic podcast: Rick Steves’s Audio Tours: Naples City Walk which offers a self-guided walking route while explaining the significance of the sights along the way. This podcast became my roadmap to exploring Naples, enriching my understanding of the city’s history and culture. Here’s the route it takes you on:

On my last day, I decided to explore the city with a sense of adventure, leaving the map behind. This spontaneous wanderlust led me down Via Toledo, Naples’ bustling main street. First stop was the Maradona Mural. Highly recommend visiting this place early in the morning before the mass of tourists take over the square. This place is very special. Even as a Juventus supporter I felt the love and the pride that the city has for its hero. In the eyes of the Neapolitans he is a legend, and his importance to Naples goes beyond just trophies. He became a symbol of hope. The Neapolitans, many from working-class backgrounds, saw him as one of their own. He wasn’t just a superstar, he was a reflection of their struggles and their passion. Under his leadership, Napoli conquered Serie A for the first time ever, then did it again a few years later. But this wasn’t just about winning, it was about defying expectations, proving the underdog could triumph. He gave Naples a sense of belonging, a global spotlight, and a story of defying the odds.

I continued my journey to Galleria Umberto I a dazzling shopping arcade that captures the essence of 19th-century Italian grandeur. Built between 1887 and 1890, it was a cornerstone of the city’s massive urban renewal project. The architect, Emanuele Rocco, drew inspiration from Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, resulting in a light-filled space with a soaring glass dome and intricate ironwork. The Galleria’s floor gleams with rich marble, while its shops, cafes, and restaurants lining the ground floor buzz with activity.

As I explored, the inviting aroma of coffee lured me into the historic Gran Caffè Gambrinus. Refuelled with a delicious pastry and espresso, I continued my journey until I emerged into the grand Piazza del Plebiscito.

This impressive square is dominated by the Royal Palace of Naples, Palazzo Reale, a testament to the city’s rich history. This grand palace, once the residence of the Bourbon kings, boasts a rich tapestry of architectural styles. While exploring its opulent halls, adorned with frescoes and sculptures, don’t miss a chance to peek out a window. The majestic silhouette of Mount Vesuvius dominates the horizon, a constant reminder of the city’s fiery past.