Montenegro: The best kept secret in Europe

Everything I see around me is the color blue in all its different shades…from the water that surrounds me, to the sky above, to the land in the distance…and my heart is silently smiling as we are leaving the ACI Marina in Dubrovnik on a warm Friday morning in August!

Once again, this year I have opted for a sailing trip (best way to travel if you ask me 😊) with G Adventures, sailing from Dubrovnik all the way down the Montenegro riviera on board of a 16m sailing yacht named Baltra, together with seven fellow travelers – Anna, Jess, Hannah, Sean, Ann-Marie, Nathan & Nij and Captain Tony.

Our first day is spent pretty much getting to know each other and having a crash course on how to help the captain with his manoeuvres…lets just say that some were definitely more eager to learn and participate (Nathan & Sean hats off to you…very impressive stuff 😊) while I – on the other hand – was pretty much an avid spectator…although this time I did learn a few more things about how to use a mezzomarinaio & how to secure Baltra to a mooring. Actually sound like I half know what I am talking about 😂😂😂 but kudos to the captain who patiently and repeatedly explained what to do!

Let me tell you a little bit about Montenegro before I go into my 8-day sailing adventure! Here’s what I learnt about this tiny country wedged between Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Serbia, Kosovo, and Albania before boarding the Baltra. Famous for its soaring mountains, the party-beach resorts of the Budva Riviera, as well as the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Bay of Kotor, Montenegro boasts an array of both natural & cultural treasures which I was very much eager to discover and photograph…and to be fair that’s as much as I knew beforehand. Why did I choose Montenegro for my summer 2018 vacation…two extremely crucial reasons…1) I absolutely love the name (I was told the Italians gave Montenegro its name meaning Black Mountain), 2) I took a quiz…result being my next holiday destination should be Montenegro! So I booked up…and boy was I glad 😊

And now let me tell you everything else I learnt, discover and love about this beautiful land while traveling on board of Baltra…

Herceg Novi

Our first stop in Montenegro was the coastal town of Herceg Novi, located at the entrance of the Bay of Kotor. Such a quaint little town rich in history and culture.

On the second evening with the Baltra-adventurers unite (that’s the name given to our WhatsApp group) we dined at a local restaurant called the Tri Lipe, meaning Three Lime Trees. A lovely al fresco restaurant near the marina and as the name suggests nestled under three linden trees. I knew straight away this place was going to be good as more locals than tourists were sampling the authentic local dishes in such an idyllic setting. I tried the grilled steak with salad and potatoes accompanied by a lot of local wine. The night was a success and the group really bonded over a good dinner and an interesting discussion on romance of all subjects!

 

On our third day we visited one of the 33 houses which belonged to Tito – president of the former Yugoslavia State. Alen, our tour guide showed us around Villa Galeb while giving us a little insight on this man which many regarded as one of the best politicians of that era and also a little history on the former Yugoslavia State…incredibly fascinating and an experience that I would recommend to anyone visiting the area. Stepping inside this house was like stepping back in time even down to the smell of the place…it would make such a great backdrop to a Bond movie or even something scarier!

Budva

Traveled to Budva on day 3…and I know this is the party town of Montenegro where all the cool people drink their fancy drinks and dance until the first morning light…but after a lovely dinner with the gang we spent the evening playing cards drinking wine and listening to the music from all the bars and clubs along the marina until one in the morning! And…it doesn’t happen often…for the first time I got totally destroyed at cards by two 17-year old girls…priceless!!!

Sveti Stefan

On day 4, we cruised along Sveti Stefan, a small fortified island home to beautiful 15th-century houses and one of the most gorgeous places on the Adriatic Sea. Today, this islet has been converted into a 5-star hotel resort part of the international group of Aman Resort. Unless you have a reservation, the islet is off limits even for the locals! Maybe next time if I have roughly €1,200 to spare per night I might consider it…more out of curiosity, really 😊!!! The view from our boat was breathtaking and definitely a different perspective from what I had seen online! Another reason why traveling via boat is the best!

In the afternoon we swam into one of the blue caves (more a bat-cave if you ask me!) near Herceg Novi. Such a surreal experience…I’ve never swam into a cave before, I’ve always gone in by boat so this time it was a different experience all together! The water was so clear and you could actually see the sand at the bottom…you know me I had to try and touch it but after several failed attempts I realized I was never going to reach the bottom! The more we stayed in the cave the more our eyes were able to adjust to darkness and actually see the space around us…and this is where we discovered we were surrounded by bats…still not sure how I feel about that!

Port of Montenegro/Tivet

Late afternoon we docked into Port of Montenegro! What can I say about this bran new marina, filled with super luxurious yachts, sport complex, swimming pool, bars, shops and beautiful apartment blocks all lined up as you enter it…the place smells of new money and beautiful people walking around with their entourage! But honestly all that was second best to the marina’s bathroom and shower facilities! When I say that being on the boat is the best way to travel I am not exaggerating, however there are a few factors to keep in mind! A 16m sailing yacht is not exactly spacious or comfortable! The bathroom is small and nothing (and I mean nothing!) can be flushed down the toilet! Plus, to shower it’s most definitely mission impossible! Needless to say, I spent the best part of one hour under the shower…and it was bliss 😊

At night, Captain Tony took us for dinner at a local vineyard – Božinović. Another highlight of this wonderful tour. Meeting a local family and being introduced to their cuisine, wine, liquors and traditions was somewhat magical. Our main host was Vedran, who gave us an insight into his family vineyard and products, together with his cousin, who provided the entertainment (what a sweet sweet man) and his mother responsible for the amazing food we tasted and the potent liquor we sampled. They all welcomed us into their home and what a night! The wine, with such a bold and meaty taste to it, was going down a treat; the food was finger-licking good and I honestly couldn’t get enough; and sitting under the vines on a clear summer night, enjoying each moment and really feeling blessed…I was at a table with friends, no longer strangers, having the time of my life!

Kotor Old Town

Day 5…we left Port of Montenegro for Kotor…after naturally another 1-hour long shower (I was trying to sober up a little!) and a coffee in one of the cutest restaurants along the marina. On our way to the bay of Kotor we enjoy front seat sea view of Perast – one of the jewels in the Bay of Kotor which has become one of the more luxurious destinations of Montenegro – Our Lady of the Rock Church and St. George’s island. Can I just say truly spectacular…I actually had to pinch myself! Late afternoon we docked in Kotor.

Wikipedia facts about Kotor…Kotor Old Town is UNESCO World Heritage protected as part of the Natural and Cultural Region of Kotor. Protected by its well preserved 10m thick medieval walls, the Old Town of Kotor is where you’ll see medieval architecture, monuments, churches, cathedrals, and palaces.

But all that had to wait one more day…I know it’s sad but that night some of us opted for a night on the boat…playing cards (and getting beat again!) drinking wine and enjoying the sounds of live music coming from one of the boats next to us!

Kotor Wall & Fortress

Day 6…Time for some serious sightseeing…Anna and I enjoyed a 6am start to trek up the city walls to reach the fortress of Kotor. It’s such a unique experience seeing a place waking up! The street vendors were setting up shop, the streets were getting cleaned, the air felt new and the heat still hadn’t engulfed every alley and squares. The locals were getting ready to welcome the new batch of tourist arriving at 8am on one of the big cruise lines and the anticipation was endearing! In the meantime, Anna and I were gearing up to tackle the 1,350 steps up Kotor’s fortress (don’t forget also the 1,350 steps down 😳😱😭). Absolutely, unequivocally, 100% worth the climb! The views of the bay and the old city are incredible from up above plus you can’t help thinking that you are on the set of Lord of the Rings or Game of Thrones…it is such an incredible place. Tips for this outing…make sure you are wearing comfortable walking shoes, pack water and a snack and if you are an early bird, you will avoid the heat the crowd and the entrance fee by setting off before 7am 😉

We returned to the boat around 10am…just in time for a quick shower (yes on board of Baltra!) and a power nap. By 12pm we were all ready for our day trip with Montenegro Golden Bay Tourist Agency and our guide Igor. What a day!!!! After a couple of stops along the way to admire the beautiful Budva from above we reached our first stop, the Lovcen Mausoleum, Located in Lovcen National Park, resting place of Petar Petrovic II Njegos, Montenegro’s most famous poet and philosopher, who was also the Prince-Bishop of the country. To reach the mausoleum we climbed 461 steps (to be precise 😅) so make sure you have comfortable walking shoes, water and your camera at the ready as once we reached the top the views from the mausoleum are spectacular!

We spent the afternoon drinking wine and rakija sampling some incredibly delicious prosciutto, sausage meat and cheese! I mean can life get any better than this!!!???? Apparently so, on our way down the serpentine road we stopped to take in the beautiful scenery and to zip-line across the mountains! Picture this…the sun was setting over the Bay of Kotor…and I was zip-lining through the open space screaming with joy, excitement and maybe a little fear too!

Kotor is absolutely beautiful and like many places in Montenegro it becomes alive at night time. All the restaurants and bar are filled with tourists and locals alike, everywhere you hear music and laughter, and that in itself makes you happy. Our evening was spent drinking piña coladas and making new friends.

Day 7/8…Knowing that this adventure was soon coming to an end made this day very sad indeed…I spent most of the morning cooking lunch and sunbathing. After lunch I went into the water until my finger went all wrinkly and all I could taste was salt in my mouth. Then we sailed back to Dubrovnik leaving behind some wonderful memories and a country I will most definitely go back and explore some more. I’ve had a ridiculous amazing time and I hope you’ve enjoyed this read. Montenegro is in my opinion one of the most beautiful place in Europe and if you haven’t been yet make sure to check it out before too many tourists invade this stunning place.

♥ Dani ♥